Turfgrass Management After Hurricane Matthew

— Written By
en Español

El inglés es el idioma de control de esta página. En la medida en que haya algún conflicto entre la traducción al inglés y la traducción, el inglés prevalece.

Al hacer clic en el enlace de traducción se activa un servicio de traducción gratuito para convertir la página al español. Al igual que con cualquier traducción por Internet, la conversión no es sensible al contexto y puede que no traduzca el texto en su significado original. NC State Extension no garantiza la exactitud del texto traducido. Por favor, tenga en cuenta que algunas aplicaciones y/o servicios pueden no funcionar como se espera cuando se traducen.

English is the controlling language of this page. To the extent there is any conflict between the English text and the translation, English controls.

Clicking on the translation link activates a free translation service to convert the page to Spanish. As with any Internet translation, the conversion is not context-sensitive and may not translate the text to its original meaning. NC State Extension does not guarantee the accuracy of the translated text. Please note that some applications and/or services may not function as expected when translated.

Collapse ▲

[Download this information as a PDF.]

A number of Extension specialists and faculty from Clemson and NC State put together a recovery document that combines their collective expertise in areas relating to turfgrass. Beyond the wind damage and debris, hurricanes can impact the recovery and management of golf courses. Below is a summary of issues and management strategies for turfgrasses and trees. For more information on a particular issue, please contact the respective section’s author(s).

Weed Issues – Bert McCarty, PhD and Fred Yelverton, PhD

Probably the biggest long-term agronomic effect from the flooding/tidal surge is the lack of weed control. This is from the inundation of many areas which will leach/dilute most of previously applied preemergence herbicide. Some PRE herbicides (DNAs, others) degrade more rapidly in anaerobic conditions. This is why you often experience more weed escapes (crabgrass, Poa annua), during wet conditions. Some leachable herbicides (triazines, Kerb, others) can be leached out of the upper inch of soil, which is where almost all of the small seeded grasses germinate. The inundation will also weaken the permanent grass, providing more voids as well as deposit more Poa seed from silt/mud. If courses have not overseeded, it is recommended skip it this year to minimize competition of the weakened bermudagrass. This also greatly simplifies and decreases the cost of Poa control.

Non-overseeded. Courses which haven’t applied a preemergence herbicide such as prodiamine or indaziflam (Specticle), should perform the “tug test” to see if the bermudagrass is sufficiently tacked down to handle these. If so, then it prudent to apply these. However, most areas already have had Poa germinated, so a follow-up application of either pronamide (Kerb), an SU product (Monument, Revolver, Katana), or simazine should be considered in late November. This timing will allow the fall germination flush of Poa to have occurred, yet, the plants be immature enough to easily control. A follow-up application should also be planned in January. To the list to the January application can be added glyphosate or glufosinate (Finale).

Overseeded. Courses which still plan on overseeding should wait as long as possible (e.g., Halloween) as to allow maximum Poa germination prior to this. These courses also need to have had at least 1 in (2.5 cm) rainfall or fresh water applied to the permanent grass to flush as much salt, silt, and clay as possible. If not performed, expect a spotty overseeding from salt accumulation. Two days prior to the later timed overseeding, apply foramsulfuron (Revolver) to control the Poa that has germinated. Afterwards, Poa control gets complicated and expensive. Two fall applications of ethofumesate (Prograss) is the “best” postemergence Poa control option in overseeded turf. With the possible delayed overseeding date this year, apply the Prograss in early December followed with a late December application. Afterwards, the option is to wait until late February and apply either bispyribac-sodium (Velocity) or amicarbazone (Xonerate). A follow-up application will be required 2 to 3 weeks later. Air temperatures at the time of application must be between 55 and 75 F (13 and 24 C) and good soil moisture present. If not, you can expect yellowing (flashing) and/or extensive damage (thinning) of the ryegrass.

Insects – JC Chong, PhD

The impact of Hurricane Matthew on the management need for insect pests may be minimal. With the high soil moisture and rising water table, more tunneling by mole crickets will be observed. Mole cricket problems may be dealt with following a wait-and-see approach or application of insecticides to suppress tunneling activity. Typically, as temperature drops in the fall, mole crickets move deeper into the soil and tunnels become less numerous and obvious. With the passing of the storm, the soil dries and the mole crickets will return to deeper subsoils. Perhaps wait to see if the tunneling activity abates overtime. If it does, no management is necessary. If it continues or reaches a damaging level, insecticides may be used. The better options for suppressing tunneling activity are acephate (e.g., Orthene) and pyrethroids (bifenthrin, cyhalothrin, detamethrin, etc.).

Irrigation Water Quality- Dara Park, PhD

Tidal storm surges can result in saltwater intrusion into irrigation ponds and onto the course. If the irrigation pond is also fed by stormwater runoff, then any tidal storm surge from elsewhere may enter the pond too. The good news is that the rainfall will also end up in the pond diluting the saltwater.

Irrigation ponds:

Check the pH & EC of the water. If it is greater than 500 ppm TDS or 0.75 dS m-1 for EC, then there is cause for concern. If all you have is a pH meter, then a pH greater than 7.0 may be suspect.

Some irrigation ponds that are very close to the coast can release water into adjacent wetlands via gate valves when the tide is below the water level of the pond. This might be the best way to “flush” out the salts. This cannot be done if your pond is filled by treated wastewater. Most wastewater ponds have a NPDES permit that limits the discharge. Contact Mike Montebello @ 803 898 4228 if you are unsure on the course’s pond discharge permit. For ponds that do not have an NPDES permit, there are no specific regulatory requirements associated with discharges. However, the Pollution Control Act states that discharge cannot adversely impact adjacent property or the environment. Regardless, please be aware of what is in the water when releasing from a potentially storm affected pond. If needed submit a water sample for analysis. If submitting to Clemson University Agricultural Service laboratory, order the “Special” Analysis. Info on the how to submit a sample can be found under the “Irrigation Water” link at http://www.clemson.edu/public/regulatory/ag_svc_lab/

Navigate to the Water Quality Flow Chart  (in the left-hand column) to help assess for salinity issues.

If the water is salty and the only means of discharge is on the course, try to select the least desirable area to apply it to. Follow with an application of gypsum and flush with freshwater once obtained.

Chloride and boron should also be monitored. Chloride levels  > 70 ppm and boron levels > 1 ppm are of concern. Chloride is easily leached, but boron can accumulate in some soils. Both can quickly become toxic to turfgrasses.

Soils on the course that are salt affected:

If rootzone soils are of low CEC (common in soils with low organic matter content and of sandy texture), the sodium present may not influence the soil structure but still may present a sodium toxicity hazard to the turfgrass and ornamental plantings. Flushing with fresh water will be the easiest and most cost effective way to remove the salts / sodium.

For soils with higher CEC (more organic matter, heavy textures as found in some native subsoils along the coast), begin with flushing the soil with fresh water. An acid burner or injector would be the best way to reduce sodium hazards from occurring. Using the acid burner or injector will also reduce high pHs that are found in high salinity / sodium soils. The hydrogen produced replaces the sodium, and in many cases if the acid is sulfuric, the sulfate will complex with the sodium and be leached with percolating waters. It is the hydrogen that also lowers the pH. If an acid burner or injector is not an option, apply gypsum. Spoon-feeding will give the best results. Going with a finer particle gypsum will react faster than a more coarse particle. With gypsum, the calcium will replace the Na. However, gypsum will have little to no influence on pH. An application of elemental sulfur will help reduce pH.

Either way, soil test to help identify the best management strategies and again after management strategies have been applied to gauge how effective they were. A simplified cheat is below:


Diseases – Bruce Martin, PhD and Jim Kerns, PhD

An additional issue that can occur is unusual or greater than normal disease outbreaks. The heavy rains can leach fungicides, enhance their degradation by hydrolysis and stimulate pathogens. We saw this last fall, winter and spring with very high disease pressure and outbreaks which likely were the result of prolonged cloudy, wet weather and flooding from the now legendary October rains which drenched the eastern regions of South Carolina and portions of eastern North Carolina. The Carolinas once again bore the brunt of Hurricane Matthew, and effects of that storm are still being keenly felt.

Pythium blights and rot rots are likely the diseases that come to mind most readily and certainly we saw a lot of Pythium last year under similar circumstances. The chart below outlines some single component fungicides that are registered for Pythium diseases; note the interval of control expected from these materials. The top-tier materials based on turf trials include Banol, Segway and the phosphonates (Signature or Appear in the Table). Strobilurins have Pythium activity but Pythium control is not a major strength of these fungicides.


We also documented numerous and fairly severe cases of take-all root rot (TARR), also known as bermudagrass decline when it occurs in bermudagrass. The causal agent is Gaeumannomyces graminis var. graminis. It is a true root rot disease, and causes circular sunken patches. Fall and spring fungicide applications are generally recommended, although late summer applications have been somewhat effective also. Cultural controls involve modifying rhizosphere pH through the use of acidifying fertilizers. This approach has not been highly effective and with low rates of N fertilization in general on putting greens, an impact from this practice is likely to be minimal. Fungicides have been somewhat effective in managing TARR especially when used preventively as noted before.


Note that all of the fungicides labeled for bermudagrass decline indicate either treatment in a high volume of water (4 gpt) or irrigation after application up to 0.2 inches to incorporate these into the root zone. It is also very important stop or limit PGRs on courses with damage to allow for recovery.

Other diseases can also increase as the result of this storm, such as leaf spot, Microdochium patch and even dollar spot. These are more easily dealt with on a curative basis, so are likely not as of great concern as Pythium and bermudagrass decline.

Soil Fertility – Haibo Liu, PhD

From soil fertility point of view of the flooding, the worst damages will be root system depending how long under water. Hope most areas were not more than 48 hours under water. An additional aeration (solid tine no more than ¼”) would be helpful to let roots to have some recovery for both cool-season and warm season turfgrass greens, then topdressing. If it is possible, to have the soil sample test done immediately to have an idea how much salts in the soil profile. Gypsum (CaSO4 2H2O) of course will help a lot to get sodium out quickly but it will also depends on how much irrigation water to apply. For the soils with lower soil pH, a lime application this winter can be avoided to reduce the potential of soil nutrient imbalance since the soil salt contents are high with the flooded areas (particularly with sea water). Additional potassium will be helpful as well to reduce soil profile sodium toxicity for both cool-season and warm-season turf as the last application to the warm-season turfgrasses and a few more additional applications to cool-season turf in Carolinas. It is not necessary to have broadcast applications and treat the worst flooded area first and have a three to four weeks plan for the recovery. A few quick foliar applications of nutrients will be helpful with more ammonium type fertilizers than nitrate. With heavy rains and runoff and leaching, all nutrient levels would be lower than normal years in soils. Additional fertilizers (cool-season turfgrasses) should be applied gradually for this winter season.

Trees- Dara Park, PhD and Robert Polomski, PhD

I am not claiming to be a tree specialist, however after living on the coast and dealing with hurricane aftermath for most of my life, I have learned a few tips. Just because it is not down, does not mean it is not dead or going to die. Dr. Polomski, Clemson University’s tree specialist has also reviewed and added to this section (thank you Bob).

  • Standing trees that lose large, significant limbs or many major limbs ill be susceptible to insects and diseases. hey should be evaluated to determine if they will recover or need to be removed.
  • Trees in which standing water on the surface is present, are at a greater risk for mortality than trees with just saturated soils.
  • Many trees can tolerate short periods of flooding, but flood tolerance varies with species.
  • Different trees have different salt tolerance levels.

Hurricane Matthew hit at a time when trees on the coast are starting the dormancy process. Thus it might be harder to tell if deciduous trees are loosing their leaves because of the time of year, or if they are dying. Also, deciduous trees still might be OK while senescing, but may lose roots over the fall and winter and not be able to overcome the stress next spring. If evergreens (on the coast, most commonly are pine trees) are shedding all their needles, needles on both current and previous years’ growth, it’s important to evaluate these trees to determine if they’re in decline.

Navigate to http://newsstand.clemson.edu/mediarelations/clemson-expert-take-steps-to-protect-ornamental-plants-trees-from-hurricane-winds/ to learn more about protecting ornamental plants and trees from hurricane winds (after all, hurricane season is not over just yet).

Submerged Turfgrass, Grady Miller, PhD

The more severe turf damage is typically from the storm surge pounding turf with salty water. In many cases once the water subsides and the ground begin to dry, the turf may dye from salt injury. If not near the cost, salt damage is less of an issue. But the high rainfall rate and the fact that the ground was already saturated from previous storms means widespread flooding in many coastal and inland areas.

Turf injury from submersion can be variable depending on the conditions. These include turfgrass species, water temperature, duration of submergence, and depth of submergence. Observations have indicated that turfgrass can withstand submersion for up to 60 days when water temperatures are below 50 degrees. On the other hand, turf can be killed in one day when water temperatures are in the high 80s or higher. Temperatures were between these for this storm. Submersion injury also increases when the entire plant is submerged. If the plant is submerged for a more than a few days under water cloudy with silt, clay and debris it is more damaging than if the water is clear. In addition, flood waters may contain toxic contaminants such as salts or petroleum. These may cause longer-term problems because the contaminant may linger in the soil, impeding regrowth. Even low levels of salts can indirectly affect plants by reducing water uptake or by causing an imbalance of plant nutrients. And while it may seem minor, the lack of oxygen to the roots brought on by saturated soils may cause turf loss.

Understanding the cause of your damage helps in developing a plan to renovate the turf. If the floodwaters deposited silts and clays on the surface, these should be removed with shoveling, hosing, power washing, etc. In some cases debris and soil material can be blown off the surface with a blower. The air flow from the blower can also hasten the soil drying process. If the grass does not begin to green up by the time the soil begins to dry out, it may be a sign that the turf is dead or that it is so severely set back that regrowth is going to be very slow. Given enough time, bermudagrass will grow back from almost any flooding damage. But if the damage is more than just a thin turf, and time is an issue, it may be better to start over completely.

If the damage is not too severe, begin aerification once the area can support a lightweight aerifier or tractor-mounted aerifier. Not only will this alleviate compaction, but it will help break up the soil layers and get more oxygen into the rootzone. If the flooding was associated with a salt-water storm surge, then leaching the saltwater out of the rootzone may be necessary. Additional rainfall since the storm may begin a “self-flush” the rootzone. In the absence of rainfall, the irrigation system may be used to dilute and move the salts below the rootzone.

Once the water has subsided and the rootzone begins to dry, initiate a normal grow-in fertilization and irrigation program appropriate for your grass and soil conditions. Consider the need to alter your herbicide program. Note that the moving floodwaters may have replenished your weed seed bank.

Long-term problems will also reflect the type of initial storm damage. With rainfall and irrigation, salt damage should be fairly short-term. If topsoil was eroded and replaced before renovation, there may be some long-term variation in turf growth and color due to differences in soil. Also, and silt and clay deposits that were not removed may result in long-term visual and performance differences. Regular aerification and topdressing should address these problems over time.

Written By

Justin Moore, N.C. Cooperative ExtensionJustin MooreDirector of Marketing and Communications, NC State Extension Call Justin Email Justin Extension Administration
NC State Extension, NC State University
Updated on Oct 24, 2016
Was the information on this page helpful? Yes check No close
Scannable QR Code to Access Electronic Version